Thursday, December 31, 2009

Lentil burgers

It sounds like something vegan hippies would eat, I know. But I recently had a bout of food poisoning from ground beef of indeterminate origin, so I've vowed to no longer eat ground beef unless it's organic, grass-fed, and all comes from the same cow. Seeing that grass-fed ground beef is WAY more expensive than I can afford on a regular basis, I've been trying out inexpensive burger alternatives.
This is one of my favorites. The burgers are actually really good, and you can add cheese and bacon to the end result if you like. I also made a sort-of aioli out of Sriracha chili sauce and mayo that complemented these perfectly.
Plus, since they're so cheap and healthy, you can add extra bacon and not feel guilty about it.
3-4 handfuls dried lentils
1/2 chopped onion
chopped sundried tomatoes
1/4 cup or so breadcrumbs
parmesan cheese
1 egg
seasonings (paprika, etc. as you see fit)
Dried lentils can be prepared in the same way as dried beans. To wit: soak in water overnight. The next morning, throw them in the crockpot and cook on low while you're at work. The next day, use them to make these lentil burgers. This method has the advantage of cooking out all the gastro-intestinal difficulties, and dried lentils are incredibly cheap.
Take the lentils and combine with the other ingredients. You may need to add more breadcrumbs/another egg to get them to hold completely together. Form into patties, and cook with a little olive oil, 3-4 minutes on each side.
Depending on how many sundried tomatoes you use (I used about 3/4 of a cup, chopped) and how much parmesan, you could conceivably make a batch for less than $1. Cost of hamburger buns and condiments are extra, of course; with a bag of 8 hamburger buns ($1.99), you're still looking at 8 big burgers for less than $3. I'll assume you already have ketchup and mustard in your fridge.That's about 38 cents each--a third of the cost of a Dollar Menu burger from McDonald's, and way healthier (and best of all, no chance of food poisoning).

Wednesday, December 30, 2009


The best way to use up stale bread or bread that is in danger of going stale. You can use any kind of bread--sandwich bread, French bread, Italian bread, English muffins, hamburger/hot dog buns, dinner rolls, etc.

Take all your stale bread and cut it into cubes. Place on a baking sheet. Drizzle the cubes with a little melted butter, and sprinkle with herbs and/or garlic powder. Bake at 225 until crispy and browned, stirring occasionally. This could take an hour or more, depending on how much bread there is. But that's okay--it's important to make sure the croutons are completely crispy, or they will mold in your pantry. Once done, let them cool, and throw them in a Ziploc bag for future use. If crisped all the way through, they'll keep indefinitely.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Corn fritters

1 cup corn (frozen is fine)
1 separated egg
2 tablespoons flour
2-4 tablespoons butter
2-4 tablespoons olive oil or bacon fat (although duck fat is particularly nice)
Salt and pepper

Combine corn, egg yolk, and flour in bowl, mix well, and add salt and pepper. Beat the egg white into stiff peaks, fold carefully into the corn mix. Heat 2 tablespoons butter with 2 tablespoons oil or fat in skillet. When almost smoking, drop small spoonfuls of corn mix in pan, fry until crisp and brown on each side. Serve hot.

Monday, December 28, 2009

Mushroom sauce

This is great with bread.

1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons minced onion
a couple of handfuls of sliced mushrooms, any kind (shittake and portobello are especially good)
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream

Saute onion in butter until wilted, add mushrooms and stir until they give up their liquid. The trick is not to crowd the pan. Do a few mushroom slices at a time if necessary. Cook until the liquid evaporates. Sprinkle with flour, whisk rapidly. Add broth, continue whisking until blended and smooth. Cook, stirring occasionally, another 15 minutes. Add cream, simmer 5 minutes more.

I've tried making this with reconstituted dried mushrooms (advantage: much cheaper than fresh) and the fresh really do taste better. But you don't have to use fancy expensive mushrooms; plain old white button mushrooms will do just fine if that's what you can afford. If the final result with those is a little bland for you, you can add salt or fresh thyme to jazz it up a bit.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Slow-roasted pork shoulder

There are two great things about cheap cuts of meat. 1. They're cheap. 2. They taste better. Yes, they take longer to cook; but I find that something like short ribs or lamb shanks, cooked down for many hours, are much more flavorful and versatile than steak. A big pork shoulder will run maybe $1-2 a pound. Buy the biggest one you can.

Take the entire pork shoulder, skin and all, and pop it into a big cast-iron Dutch oven. Put some quartered onions and carrots on the bottom of the Dutch oven; maybe a little leftover wine, as well. Cover. Cook at maximum (475 or so) for about 20 minutes, then turn the oven down to 250 and cook until meltingly tender, 9-12 hours or so.

That's all you have to do. You can start this first thing in the morning and leave it, producing a wonderful entree for dinner. You don't even have to stay home--this doesn't need to be stirred, or flipped, or checked, and since it's cooking at such a low temperature, you don't need to worry about overcooking or burning it. Just throw it in the oven in the morning and take it out when you're ready to eat it. The skin and bones will fall right off the meat, and the meat will be so tender you can shred it with a fork. Serve with barbecue sauce, or a white wine sauce, or over white beans, or over braised greens, or whatever.

I've had great luck with this as a party dish, served with barbecue sauce. Sorry, folks--I may be willing to give up my bacon chocolate recipe, but my barbecue sauce recipe is a trade secret.

Cost: Last time I made this was in New York; I believe I got 8 lbs of pork shoulder for $10-12, and it fed...well, that thing could have fed 20 people. I served it at a party and was still eating the leftovers for days.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Bacon chutney

This recipe came to me from my friend Eric. I haven't tried it yet, but I have no reason to doubt its deliciousness. It makes one cup or so.

1 Pound Smoked Bacon (thick cut or un-sliced slab)
1 Medium Onion (sliced thin)
1/4 Cup Brown Sugar
1 Teaspoon Kosher Salt
1/2 Teaspoon Ginger
1/4 Teaspoon Ground Mustard
1/4 Teaspoon Ground Cloves
1/4 Teaspoon Chipotle Powder
1/4 Teaspoon Dried Thyme
1/4 Teaspoon Dried Rosemary (crushed)
1/4 Teaspoon Black Pepper (ground)
1/4 Teaspoon Onion Powder
1/4 Teaspoon Garlic Powder
1/4 Teaspoon Garlic Powder
Braising Liquid:
1/2 Cup Dry White Wine
1 Tablespoon Cider Vinegar
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
1 Tablespoon Molasses

In a bowl, combine all of the dry ingredients and mix well. Place the slab of bacon into a dutch oven and sprinkle both sides of bacon with dry rub. Pat the dry rub into the sides of the bacon (use all of the rub). Cover the dutch oven and refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours. Preheat oven to 250 degrees. In a small bowl, combine the ingredients for the braising liquid and mix well. Microwave on high for 1 minute. Remove the bacon from the refrigerator and sprinkle with onions. Pour the braising liquid into the dutch oven. Do not pour on top of bacon.Cover the dutch oven and braise in oven for 2 1/2 hours. Remove pan from the oven and place on burner. Remove lid and, over medium high heat, reduce liquid in pot until it is thick and glaze-like. Pour contents of pan into food processor. Pulse bacon mixture until it is a thick, but chunky consistency. Pour into serving dish or lidded jar. If not using immediately, refrigerate. (Let the bacon chutney cool to room temperature before putting the lid on it and putting it into the refrigerator.)

Friday, December 25, 2009

Shrimp creole

Shrimp creole is similar to shrimp and grits, except it's served over rice instead of grits. Again, try to use fresh (never frozen) shrimp. The taste and texture difference is really worth the extra money.

I made this last at my sister's place along the Gulf Coast, where I could get fresh-out-of-the-Gulf shrimp. I started with two pounds of enormous shrimp. I peeled all the shrimp and put the heads and shells in a pan of water to make shrimp stock. Whole shrimp are surprisingly easy to peel; the head snaps right off, the legs come off with the tail, and then all you have to do is run your thumb up under what's left of the shell and pop it off.

I chopped up all of my sister’s ripe tomatoes--about 27, seriously, her garden was a little out of control at the time--and started by sweating out chopped onion, garlic, celery, green pepper, and a little jalapeno in butter. I added a couple smoked alligator and pork sausages, then reduced that in a little white wine. I added the tomatoes, tomato paste, and shrimp stock, along with a healthy dose of salt (to help the tomatoes break down) and seasonings--bay leaves, paprika, chili powder, cumin, cayenne pepper, oregano, basil, parsley, and thyme. At the last minute I threw in the shrimp and a handful of chopped okra.

Serve hot, over rice, with Abita beer. Sit in the backyard and watch the fireflies.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Shrimp and grits

Shrimp and grits is an endlessly versatile dish. Have it for breakfast, have it for dinner. Make it with sausage, make it with cheese, the only ingredients that remain the same are the shrimp and the grits. I recommend fresh (never frozen) shrimp and real grits, not the quick kind.

Start with bacon or some type of smoked sausage/pork (andouille, tasso, alligator, I've even used leftover country ham) or at the very least some bacon fat.  Add part of a chopped onion and some garlic; when that's cooked down, deglaze with some white wine. You can add tomatoes, green onions, green beans, mushrooms, or any combination of the above. Add a little butter just at the end, along with the shrimp, and cook just until the shrimp are done. Serve immediately over the cooked grits (or cheese grits!).

Another way to do it is to start with a roux. Melt three tablespoons of butter in a large skillet; then whisk in two tablespoons flour and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the flour is a light caramel color (about six minutes). This is a blond roux. Add onion, bell pepper and celery, cooking 8-10 minutes until tender, and then add sausage. Add a little chicken broth, bring to a light boil, reduce to medium, and simmer 8-10 minutes until slightly thickened. At the end, add the shrimp and some heavy cream. This version doesn't have the tomatoes, but is much thicker and creamier.

Don't forget to serve with hot sauce!

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Lemon chess pie

A chess pie is a custard pie with no top. This can be made with lemon juice, rather than the juice of fresh lemons, meaning you can throw this pie together in the dead of winter with basic pantry ingredients. In fact, with bulk dry ingredients, lemon juice, and a homemade pie shell, you could put this whole pie together for less than $1. Fresh lemons are best, though.

2 cups sugar
2 tablespoons flour
juice of two lemons
1/2 stick melted butter
2 tablespoons cornmeal
1/4 cup milk
3 slightly beaten eggs

Mix sugar, cornmeal and flour. Add eggs. Add rest, pour into an unbaked pie shell. Bake at 350 for 30 minutes.

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Green beans with balsamic vinegar

Another variation on green beans.

1 lb green beans, cooked
chopped country ham or several slices of proscuitto, diced
1/2 red onion
balsamic vinegar
Toasted almond slices

Caramelize the red onion; when almost done, add the ham or proscuitto. Deglaze with (1/3 cup or so?) balsamic vinegar. Let the vinegar cook down until reduced by 2/3. Toss the green beans with this mixture, add toasted almonds, and serve.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Green beans with Rocquefort and walnuts

Any kind of blue cheese (gorgonzola, etc.) can be substituted for the Rocquefort.

1 lb green beans
several strips of bacon
4 oz cheese
1 1/2 cups toasted walnut halves

Cook the beans. Cook the bacon separately and remove. Add the beans to the bacon fat for two minutes. Add cheese, toss for 30 seconds. Sprinkle with walnuts, pepper and the bacon bits.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

No-bake cookies

Yet another family classic. Technically this is supposed to cool in the refrigerator, and then be cut into squares. I can't remember a batch ever making it that far--usually we all huddled over the saucepan with spoons, eating the hot mixture until it disappeared. This is another one of those things that can be made entirely with pantry ingredients.

2 sticks butter
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup cocoa
2 cups sugar
1 cup peanut butter
2 1/2 cups old-fashioned oatmeal (not quick oats)

Place first four ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Boil for two minutes. Pour into a 9x13 inch pan into which the peanut butter and oatmeal have already been added. Stir as you pour the hot mixture over the peanut butter and oatmeal. Let cool, cut into squares. Or just huddle over the hot pan with a spoon.

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Ultimate cheesecake

This is cheesecake for everyone, even for people who don't like cheesecake. Every person who's ever had this, without fail, has raved about it.

2 cups finely ground graham crackers
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 stick melted butter
2 8 oz blocks cream cheese, softened
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 pint sour cream
1 lemon, zested
1 dash vanilla

Combine the first three ingredients with a fork until evenly moistened, then lightly coat the bottom and sides of a springform pan with cooking spray and press the crumbs into this using the bottom of a glass into the base and 1 inch up the sides of the pan until evenly distributed. Refrigerate at least 5 minutes.

In electric mixer, beat cream cheese on low for 1 minute, until there are no lumps. Add the eggs one at a time and continue to beat slowly until combined after each one. Add sugar gradually and beat until creamy, 1-2 minutes. Add sour cream, zest and vanilla. Pour filling into the springform pan, smooth top with a spatula. Set pan on large piece of aluminum foil and fold the sides around it. Place the pan inside another large roasting pan, and pour boiling water into the roasting pan until the water is about halfway up the sides of the cheesecake pan. (The foil will keep the water from seeping in.) Bake for 1 hour or so at 325. The cheesecake will still jiggle in the middle (it will firm up after cooling). Let cool in the pan 30 minutes. Chill in the refrigerator, loosely covered, for at least 4 hours after that.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Brandied cranberry relish

A slightly different version of cranberry sauce.

2 cups cranberries
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup Calvados (or other brandy/applejack)

Place cranberries in a greased 2-qt baking dish and sprinkle with sugar. Cover and bake at 300 for 50-60 minutes, stirring twice. Uncover and stir in Calvados/brandy. Pour into an airtight container, let cool, and refrigerate covered for at least three hours.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Oyster fritters

A family classic, although this is because my family was centered around the Chesapeake Bay for many generations. Regardless, a great way to eat oysters. These make an amazing BLT--just add the fried oysters to the BLT. Kind of like an oyster po' boy, but with bacon. Mmmmm...bacon.

2 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 beaten eggs
1 cup milk
fat (bacon fat, lard, frying oil, etc. -- not butter)
1 pint oysters

Drain the oysters and chop. Sift the dry ingredients together, then combine the wet separately. Pour the wet into the dry. Stir, add the oysters, and fry.

Crab casserole

Alright, this is not a dish that really makes the rounds outside of my family. But I loved it as a kid, and it's much tastier than it sounds.

1 lb crabmeat or imitation crabmeat
1 teaspoon horseradish
1/2 cup mayo
2 teaspoons ketchup
3 eggs
1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons flour
salt and pepper

Mix together, pour into greased 8x8 casserole dish. Add mixture of grated cheddar cheese and bread crumbs over the top. Bake at 350 for 1 hour.

Cost: depends on whether you're using real or imitation crabmeat, although imitation works just fine for this recipe. Let's say $4 for that; the other ingredients might set you back $1.50, depending on how much cheese you put on top.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Scrambled eggs in puff pastry

Last night, while attempting to think of a use for a last sheet of puff pastry, I came up with this. It's a great recipe, with endless variations. At its simplest, it's scrambled eggs in a sheet of puff pastry. (Thank you, Captain Obvious.) Just let the puff pastry thaw a bit, add the slightly undercooked scrambled eggs, and fold the pastry over diagonally. Seal the edges with a fork and bake at 400 until done (between 15 and 30 minutes, depending on how many pastry packets you have going). For more people, use two sheets of puff pastry, laying one over the other instead of folding diagonally; and so on.

But the variations are endless. Other possible additions are caramelized onions; cheese; bacon, sausage or ham; salsa; truffle oil; all sorts of veggies and herbs; peppers; mushrooms; really anything that you could put in an omelet. I'm a big fan of crab omelets--a can of crabmeat (the canned actually works better than fresh, in this case) with seasonings of  your choice, though I particularly like green onions, purple or Thai basil and Old Bay. I think one of those would be lovely in puff pastry. My sister is bringing me some Gulf specialities at Christmas--tasso, boudin, alligator sausage, stuff that is plentiful there that I can't get here to save my life. I'm particularly excited about doing a variation of this with tasso, peppers and hot sauce. And how decadent would it be to load up the scrambled eggs with truffle oil and have this for brunch with a nice bottle of Champagne?

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Parmesan brussel sprouts

Brussel sprouts have gotten a bad rap over the years, probably because most people boil them until they're mush. Gross. This recipe, as far as I'm concerned, is the only way--and the tastiest way!--to eat brussel sprouts.

3 lbs Brussels sprouts, ends cut off and sliced in half
½ cup bacon fat
½ cup parmesan

Toss sprouts with bacon fat, roast at 425 in shallow baking pan for 20 minutes or so. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, cheese and serve.

The bacon fat is key. If you really wanted to, you could substitute olive oil and make this vegetarian, but man, roasting anything in bacon fat is just so good. The cost is minimal, too--I save all my bacon fat, so it's just however much you pay for the Brussel sprouts and the parm.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Bacon chocolate

On Friday, I bought a bacon chocolate bar. I was pretty excited about it; but it turned out to be somewhat disappointing. First, and most damningly, it wasn't very bacon-y. Despite a very large and prominent picture of a slice of bacon on the bar, the bacon flavor was incredibly subtle. It was more a salty chocolate bar than a bacon-y chocolate bar. And it was milk chocolate--only 45% cocoa. Dark chocolate would have served the concept much better.

So I decided to make my own, the way I wanted it. I took some very dark chocolate (Lindt's 85% cocoa, although you could also substitute two bars of unsweetened baking chocolate with 1/2 - 1 bar of semi-sweet) and melted it in a double boiler. While that was melting, I chopped some smoked bacon and cooked it until it was very crispy and let it cool. When the chocolate was melted, I spread it on a cookie sheet that had been covered in parchment paper, and sprinkled all the many bacon pieces over it. I pressed those in with my rubber spatula, and then added a lot of applewood-smoked salt. I let it sit for a few hours, then broke it apart and ate it.

Wow. REALLY good. I could have put even more bacon and salt in there, but the final product made me much, much happier than the store-bought bar.

Bacon makes everything better.

Butternut squash pizza

This was, hands-down, one of the best pizzas I've ever made.

I made two variations: one with roasted butternut squash, caramelized onions, and goat cheese. I covered a pizza crust with olive oil, added the onions (cooked down for about half an hour, with a bit of balsamic vinegar), added the roasted butternut squash on top, cut up into little squares, and spread around two big handfuls of goat cheese. This was my favorite of the two. My better half raved about it, and he's not one to rave about squash.

The second variation involved roasted butternut squash, caramelized onions, ricotta/parmesan/mozzarella (the standard pizza cheese trio; I'd used up all the goat cheese), lots of baby sage, and bacon.

The winning combo would of course be the first pizza, with bacon. The second one was pretty awesome, too, but I really really liked the goat cheese.

Proof positive that pizza can be a repository for all sorts of leftovers! Even butternut squash.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Linguine with clam sauce

This is another one of those great dishes that can be made entirely from what's already in your pantry.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
6 canned anchovy fillets, chopped, or the equivalent amount of anchovy paste
3 chopped garlic cloves
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 14.5 oz cans tomatoes
4 6.5 oz cans chopped clams
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 lb linguine, cooked
Parmesan and fresh parsley

Heat oil, sauté onion for 3 minutes. Add anchovies, garlic and pepper, and sauté 2 minutes. Mix in tomatoes with juice, clams with juice, wine and tomato paste. Bring to boil, reduce to medium-low and simmer at least five minutes; more if you want a slightly thicker sauce. Add linguine, toss to coast. Sprinkle with parm and parsley, serve.

For white clam sauce, leave out tomatoes.

Don't be offended by using anchovies--they add a wonderful depth of flavor (umami) and are a secret ingredient of cooks everywhere.

Cost: a tin of anchovies is about $1.50, 2 cans of tomatoes are 57 cents each if you buy them in bulk, canned clams usually run about $1.50 or so each (you can cut back to three cans if you want), and a box of linguine is probably another $1.50 (less if you buy in bulk, and you can substitute spaghetti). The rest you should already have on hand, let's say another $1 for the rest. That's roughly $11 total, maybe a little less, and this will easily feed 6 adults as a main course, for a total of $1.83 (or less) per serving.

It's also one of those dishes you can throw together at the last minute for guests, and it tastes like you spent all day in the kitchen.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Corn and bacon chowder

½ lb bacon, coarsely chopped, grease saved
2 potatoes, diced
1 cup chopped onion
¾ cup chopped celery
2 bay leaves
2 cups milk
1 box frozen corn
1 14 ¾ oz can creamed corn
1 ¼ cups broth
½ cup chopped celery leaves
hot pepper sauce to taste

Cook bacon in large heavy soup pot and remove with slotted spoon. Into same pan with bacon drippings, add potatoes, onion, celery and bay leaves, and sauté 5 minutes until vegetables are tender. Add milk, corn, creamed corn, and broth, bring to boil and reduce to medium-low. Cover and simmer, 15 minutes. Add rest, including bacon, simmer 5 minutes. Serve.

Cost: a box of corn runs about $1, another $1 for the can of creamed corn, say $2 for a half-pound of bacon and $2 for everything else. $6 total, and this will feed 6-8 as a main course or 2 adults for 3-4 meals. That's $1 or less per serving.


This is a great way to use up stale bread.

3 tablespoons olive oil
4 thick slices pancetta or bacon, chopped
4-6 chopped garlic cloves
Fresh rosemary
1 chopped onion
2 diced carrots
1 medium zucchini, diced
½ cup dry red wine
1 15oz can tomatoes
6 cups beef stock
½ lb chopped or torn stale bread
2 15oz cans cannellini or small white beans
4 cups chopped kale or chard
½ cup parmesan

Heat oil in soup pot, cook bacon. Add rosemary, garlic, onion, carrots and zucchini, sauce 7-8 min. Add wine and deglaze the pot. Stir in tomatoes and stock. When soup boils, reduce to simmer and stir in beans and bread. Pile greens into pot, wilt them into the soup. Simmer 5-10 minutes until it thickens to a very dense stew-like consistency. Serve with parmesan. 

Cost: If you make the stock yourself, and already have the bread on hand...say $3 for the canned ingredients, $2 for the greens and zucchini, and maybe $2 for everything else. Around $7 total, and this will feed at least 8. Less than $1 per serving!


Friday, December 11, 2009

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Chocolate mousse

Mmmm...chocolate mousse. For my money, a much more satisfying (and crowd-pleasing) dessert than cookies and brownies. Two can share a ramekin, this stuff is rich.

3 oz best-quality bittersweet chocolate
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons soft unsalted butter
3 large eggs, separated
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons confectionary sugar, sifted

Combine chocolate and water in large heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. When the chocolate is melted, whisk it until smooth, then add the butter, continuing to whisk until the mixture is a silky cream with no lumps. Remove from the heat and whisk in egg yolks one at a time. Whisk the egg whites with the salt until they are white and foamy and hold soft peaks. Continuing to whisk vigorously, sprinkle in confectionary sugar until the whites hold stiff peaks. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, and turn into a bowl or individual ramekins. Refrigerate at least two hours.

Cost: depends on the quality of the chocolate, the other ingredients will set you back less than a dollar. I recommend splurging for Scharffen Berger. Just think: for a few dollars, you can have 6-8 ramekins of restaurant-quality chocolate mousse. Mmmm...chocolate mousse...

Wednesday, December 9, 2009


12 oz (1 bag) semisweet chocolate chips
½ cup butter cut in pieces
3 eggs
1 ¼ cup flour
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
¼ teaspoon baking soda

Melt 1 cup chocolate chips and butter in pan over lowest heat until smooth (this will take a few minutes). Remove from heat, add eggs. Stir in dry ingredients and vanilla slowly. Add remaining chips, spread into greased 13x9 pan. Bake at 350 for 20-25 minutes.

Don't be fooled into making brownies from a $1.99 box of brownie mix. Those are usually dry and taste like chemicals. Homemade brownies will be moist, super-chocolately, and best of all, will actually taste like chocolate. For an added bonus, try substituting bourbon for the vanilla--the brownies won't taste like bourbon, but the bourbon will highlight the chocolate and make them taste even more chocolatey.

Pumpkin pie

Mmmmm...pumpkin pie. No holiday would be complete without it. Real pumpkin pie--that is, made from a real pumpkin, and not from a can of pumpkin pie filling--is a revelation. It's a completely different color, flavor and texture than the canned stuff. It's very light, very creamy and almost custardy, and tastes like pumpkin, not like pumpkin pie filling. I will admit making the puree is a bit of a hassle, but the final result is well worth it. You can make the puree any time of year you can find sugar pumpkins (the little ones, not the big jack o'lantern ones), and you can use the puree for pies, muffins, breads, pancakes, curries, soups, you name it. Freeze it and it keeps very well.

To make the puree, take a whole sugar pumpkin (or two, or three, or four). Cut into manageable pieces and remove the insides. Steam the pieces until tender all the way through—this will take a while—and let cool. Scrape the flesh from the rind into a food processor and discard rind. Puree. Freeze or make pie.

3 cups puree
¾ cup sugar
½ teaspoon each salt, nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger
3 large lightly beaten eggs
1 cup heavy cream

Combine, pour into two pie shells. Bake at 425 for 15 minutes, then at 350 for 30-40 minutes. Serve with fresh whipped cream.

Squash muffins

Sounds gross, I know. But these are actually very tasty, and a great way to use up squash.

2 cups cooked mashed yellow squash
1 cup sugar
2 sticks butter, melted
3 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

Mix, spoon into muffin tin, bake at 375 for 20 minutes.

I've made this with a little less than two full sticks of butter (not exactly healthy, I know, and the butter is the most expensive part of the dish) and they turned out fine.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Crab dip

OK, this isn't my recipe, it's my friend Bob's. It's always been a hit at parties. Thanks, Bob!

8 oz cream cheese, room temperature
1 6 oz can crabmeat
½ cup mayo
2 minced scallions
1 teaspoon Worchestershire
½ teaspoon Tabasco
¼ teaspoon chili powder

Mix all except chili powder in an ovenproof bowl. Sprinkle chili powder on top, bake 20 minutes at 400. Serve hot, with bread or crackers.

A can of crabmeat is about $3, and a block of cream cheese is about $1.50, maybe a little less. The rest you should have in your pantry. This goes a long way, so you can splurge on the good crackers.

Cranberry sauce

1 12 oz bag cranberries, picked over
½ cup honey
2-3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 3-inch cinnamon sticks
6 whole cloves
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
¾ cup water

Combine in pan. Simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, 5-10 min or until berries burst and the mixture has thickened. Let cool. May be made two days in advance, covered and chilled. Serve at room temperature.

The bag of cranberries will run you $2 or less this time of year, and the other ingredients you should already have in your pantry. It beats that canned stuff all to hell.

Bourbon corn pudding

3 eggs
1 1/8 cups evaporated milk
3 cups creamed corn
3 cups corn
3 tablespoons melted butter
3 tablespoons brown sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 3 tablespoons water
¾ teaspoon nutmeg
4 ½ tablespoons bourbon (well, technically, but you can add more)

Beat eggs and milk, add the rest, and pour into a buttered two-quart baking dish. 350 for 45 minutes.

Cost: 1 bag of frozen corn is about a dollar; you won't use quite all of that. Two cans of creamed corn (you won't use all of the second can, either) = around $2.50. 1 can evaporated milk is around a dollar. 3 eggs at 17 cents each, plus 50 cents for the rest, and hey, you already had the bourbon, right? About $5 for a great holiday side dish, will easily feed 8-10 depending on portion size.

Make your own hot chocolate mix

Packets of Swiss Miss just don't cut it when you can make your own.

1/3 c dry milk
1 t dry cocoa
1 t sugar
1 cup hot water

That's it. Feel free to use the really good cocoa powder. If you buy the powdered milk and cocoa powder in bulk, you're looking at a few cents per cup of hot chocolate. For that, you can afford to throw in some peppermint schnapps and real whipped cream.

Pound cake

Christmas is less than three weeks away, so I'll be posting holiday favorites. Today's is pound cake--dense, delicious, can be eaten plain or with any number of toppings/sauces.

3 sticks melted butter
2 ½ cups sugar
1 ½ teaspoons vanilla
3 cups flour
8 eggs

Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs, beat until light and fluffy. Add flour ½ cup at a time while beating, add vanilla. Flour and grease bundt pan, pour in batter. Tap lightly to release air bubbles. Bake at 350 until done (when toothpick inserted in middle comes out clean).

With three sticks of butter and eight eggs, it's a heart attack on a plate, I know. But hey, it's the holidays. It's not like you're not gonna eat the pound cake.

Cost: 8 eggs x 17 cents each = $1.36, 3 sticks of butter = $3 (and that's REAL butter, not margarine), say 50 cents for the flour, sugar and vanilla. Just under $5 for the whole thing. As dense and rich as this is, that's a lot of pound cake.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Butternut squash ravioli with pomegranate sauce

On a whim, I decided to get all gourmet and stuff yesterday and this was the result. Inspired, if I do say so myself. I'm going to have to do more experimentation with exotic fruits, they're super-cheap out here.

So, first: the pomegranate sauce. The best way to de-seed a pomegranate is in a bowl of water--the seeds float to the bottom, the membrane floats to the top, nothing gets stained. I de-seeded two big poms and pureed them in the food processor, then squeezed the remains through cheesecloth to get 2-3 cups of pom juice. Then I added about a cup and a half of brown sugar and a couple tablespoons of black pepper to that, and cooked it down over low heat for about an hour until it reduced by at least half.

The ravioli filling: I roasted two big butternut squash at 375 for about an hour; cut them in half, de-seed them, then place in a roasting dish with a little oil cut-side up. Coat the exposed side with a little oil, cover the whole thing with foil. When done, let cool, then scrape out the insides and add ricotta cheese, a little curry powder, and a little grated parmesan.

The ravioli themselves: for the dough, add 5 to 6 eggs to three and a half cups of flour. You can mix it by hand or whiz in the food processor for 15-20 seconds. Knead until smooth and elastic, then divide into four pieces and let rest for half an hour. I rolled out the dough using my handy pasta roller KitchenAid attachment; but you can also do it by hand, with a rolling pin. When you've rolled out all the dough to the desired thickness, place a tablespoon of filling for each square, fold the other half of the dough sheet back over, and cut out the ravioli squares. Let rest again.

To assemble: place the ravioli in boiling water just until they float, then finish by sauteing in a little butter. Place 4-5 ravioli per plate, cover with pom sauce, and crumble a little goat cheese and chopped fresh parsley over the lot. Sprinkle with reserved pom seeds. Serve with a nice California zinfandel, light some candles, and have a gourmet restaurant experience right in your own living room. You can even make your boyfriend do the dishes for you, completing the gourmet restaurant experience.

It sounds like a lot of work, and really, it is a fair amount. It's not something you want to tackle unless you have the better part of an afternoon free. But it was so worth it. Every time I get about halfway through the fresh pasta-making procedure, I think, "Why am I doing this?" Then I eat it, and I remember why.

Butternut Squash on FoodistaButternut Squash

Friday, December 4, 2009

Potato soup

My friend Lauren has a bunch of mashed potatoes she needs to use up. One of my favorite uses of mashed potatoes is shepherd's pie (here's a good recipe from Rachael Ray). Yet another is this potato soup.

4 slices diced bacon
1 cup chopped onion
2 stalks celery, sliced
Several large potatoes, peeled and cubed
Chicken broth to cover
2 cups milk
¼ cup chopped parsley
Salt and pepper
4 oz gorgonzola or other blue cheese

In large soup pot, cook bacon until crisp. Remove with slotted spoon, add onion and celery to bacon grease and cook until soft. Add potatoes and stock just to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium-low and simmer, covered, 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Puree part of soup with stick blender, add milk and parsley, season, and heat through, about 4 minutes. Stir in bacon and cheese, serve.

To make this with mashed potatoes, just add a little more broth or milk and cook for less time, just until the mashed potatoes are heated through. Obviously you can skip the pureeing step. When the soup is the consistency/temperature you want, add the cheese and eat. Don't skimp on the gorgonzola, either--that's the best part! Well, that and the bacon.

Cost: well, if you already have the mashed potatoes...maybe $1 for the milk, $2 for the cheese (depending on the quality/how much you use), and $1 for everything else. $4 for a whole pot of yummy potato soup...mine usually feeds two adults as a main course for at least three or four separate meals.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Onion tart

And yet another use for puff pastry.

1 sheet puff pastry
4 very large onions, diced
1 cup chicken broth
3 tablespoons (maybe a little more) heavy cream
¼ lb bacon, diced

Put a dinner plate over the slightly thawed puff pastry, and cut around it to form a circle. Place on a baking sheet and prick all over with a fork. Put onions and broth in pan, cook over low until the onions are very soft, about 30 minutes. Drain and let cool. When cooled, add heavy cream and salt and pepper. Cook bacon for just 2 minutes (the bacon will not be done). Remove and drain. Pile onions on top of pastry, scatter bacon pieces over, pushing them down into the onions. Bake at 350 for 30 minutes, serve immediately.

This is a great winter side dish, and doesn't taste onion-y at all. Roasted garlic tastes completely different from fresh garlic--very mellow and almost sweet. This is the same sort of difference--this tastes mellow and almost sweet, with a nice hint of bacon, not like raw onion at all.

Cost: $2.50 for a sheet of puff pastry, maybe 50 cents for the onion, let's say $1 for the bacon. I make my own broth, so that costs nothing. $4 for a great side dish for 6 to 8.

Goat cheese pastries

Here's something to do with that other sheet of puff pastry (leftover after you made the swiss chard tart). This is a quick and easy appetizer that tastes amazing and never fails to please guests. Oh, and plus? Only four ingredients.

1 T olive oil
2-3 large red onions, sliced
1-2 sheets puff pastry dough
1 cup goat cheese

Sauté the onions in olive oil over gentle heat 10 minutes or so, until very soft. Remove, let cool. Let the pastry sheet(s) thaw slightly and unfold on a cookie sheet. Cut into 9 equal squares for each sheet, and gently score ¼ inch inch around each square. Divide the onions equally among the squares, and top with lots of goat cheese. Bake at 425 25-30 minutes or until golden brown. Serve piping hot.

Cost: $2.50 for one sheet of puff pastry (a package of two is $4.99), plus maybe 50 cents for the onions and another couple of dollars for the goat cheese, depending on what kind it is and whether you bought it in bulk (and how much you use, of course--I love goat cheese, so I use quite a lot, way more than 1 cup). Maybe $5 total for a set of 9 substantial appetizers.

Swiss chard tart

I was talking to my mom last night and she mentioned that she needed a way to use up some swiss chard--her garden was overrun with it. I go through a bunch of winter greens (chard, kale, collards, and the like) nearly every week, and there are a ton of ways to utilize them. They're full of vitamins, very versatile, and keep for a long time in the fridge. You can add them to soups, to risottos, to pasta dishes, or simply saute them with a little garlic. This is another one of my favorite ways to use chard.

1 lb Swiss chard, stems removed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 minced garlic clove
1 15 oz container ricotta
½ cup parmesan
2 eggs
½ teaspoon each salt, pepper, thyme, oregano
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 sheet puff pastry

Cook chard in large pot of boiling water until just wilted, about two minutes. Drain and squeeze out liquid. Chop. Sauté garlic in oil for  one minute and add chard. Sauté until excess liquid evaporates, about 5 minutes. Transfer to large bowl, and let cool slightly. Add the rest except puff pastry and mix. Place the sheet of (slightly thawed) puff pastry on the bottom of a pie pan, and trim edges to 1-inch overhang. Fill with chard mixture, fold overhang back over the sides of the pie. Bake at 375 45 minutes, then let cool for 10 minutes.

You can also make this with a second sheet of puff pastry on top, like a pie.

Cost: chard runs about $2 a bunch this time of year (unless you're my mom, and have it in the garden in spades). A container of ricotta will run about $4, and one box of puff pastry (with two sheets) is $4.99, of which you'll need one sheet. $8.50 for the base ingredients, another 75 cents for the eggs, parmesan and spices. $9.25 total for a nice side dish for four, or a main course for two.


Fried tofu

I was having a craving for something fried last night, and I had a block of tofu in the fridge, so Lo! Fried tofu.

This is very easy and quick to make, and healthier than it sounds. I paired it with some Thai peanut sauce I already had. The key is to press all the moisture out of the tofu, since water + fry = mess. Sandwich it between two sets of paper towels and put a big heavy skillet, or any big heavy thing, on top. Change the paper towels as needed, until the tofu is no longer weeping moisture. (If you start with a block of firm or extra-firm tofu, this doesn't take long at all.) Then cut in half lengthwise, and cut each half into approximately five blocks. Meanwhile, start 1 cup or so of vegetable oil in a skillet (preferably cast-iron). When the oil is hot, lightly dip each side of each block of tofu into some cornstarch. Fry for a few minutes on each side. Serve piping hot.

Cost: a block of tofu is about $2, the cost of the cornstarch was negligible, and let's say the cost of the oil was 25 cents. $2.25 total for a great appetizer for two or meal for one, and it takes just minutes to prepare. An order of fried tofu at the local Chinese place runs $4.99, and you get less tofu.

A lot of people needlessly diss tofu, thinking it will taste like something vegan hippies eat. Au contraire--tofu merely takes on the flavors of its surroundings. It has very little flavor of its own, meaning you can add it to almost anything for a great cheap source of protein. Fried tofu tastes mostly like fried, with a nice creamy center. And let's face it--this dish was really just a delivery system for the sauce, anyway.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Peanut butter fudge

A childhood classic.

1 stick melted butter
1 box confectionery sugar
2/3 cup cocoa
1 cup peanut butter (creamy)
1 teaspoon vanilla

Mix, press into pan.

That's it. You can let it cool if you want, but I usually just took a spoon and dug in.

Cost: around $1 each for the butter and box of confectioner's sugar, add another 75 cents for the other ingredients. $2.75 total, and this will fill a standard 8 x 8 casserole dish. That's...several days' worth of fudge. This stuff is good, but rich.

Oatmeal cookies


I'm having a craving for sugar today, which is fairly rare (usually my cravings involve salt, or possibly a strong cocktail). So I'll be posting quick and easy cookie recipes.

For years my cookies always came out a little burnt on the bottom, and I could never figure out why. Then I realized it was due to a) crappy baking sheets, and b) an oven that heated irregularly. You can't do much about b), but a) is easy to fix. If you consistently have problems with your cookies being overdone, try these steps:

1. Dial the oven back by 10-25 degrees from what the recipe tells you. (If it says 350, try somewhere between 325 and 350.)

2. Get better cookie sheets (stoneware is awesome). Or you can try putting parchment paper over your current cookie sheets; this usually prevents over-browning.

3. Keep a careful eye on the cookies, and take them out just before you think  they'll be done. They'll continue to cook a little once you take them out of the oven. I usually take them out about a minute before the required time (if the recipes says cook 8-10 minutes, I'll take them out at 7 minutes).

4. Take them off the cookie sheet immediately upon removing them from the oven. Let them cool on parchment paper or a cut-open brown paper grocery bag.

So, for yummy-good oatmeal cookies:

½ cups sugar
½ c packed brown sugar
¼ c butter
¼ c shortening
½ teaspoon each baking soda, cinnamon, vanilla
¼ teaspoon each baking powder, salt
1 egg
1 ½ c quick cooking oats
1 c flour

Mix all except flour and oats. Stir in flour and oats. Drop dough by spoonfuls on ungreased sheet, and cook at 375 for 10 minutes. Remove immediately from sheet.

This usually makes 10-12 big cookies, and since I have all the ingredients in bulk, I'm guessing the whole batch doesn't cost more than maybe 30 or 40 cents. It takes two minutes to mix, literally, another 10 to cook...a quick and easy dessert, or a quick and easy fix to late-night sugar cravings. And hey, there's oatmeal in there, right? Oatmeal is good for you. Therefore, these are healthy.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Monday, November 30, 2009

Can't cook? How to get started

This post neatly sums up all the obstacles new cooks face. Don't worry--no one is born a gourmet chef. Everyone on the Food Network had to learn how to boil water, once.

Spinach and ricotta gnocchi

2 lbs fresh spinach or 1 box frozen, thawed
2 T butter
1 small finely chopped onion
½ c finely chopped proscuitto
1 lb or 1 15 oz container ricotta
1 ½ c plus more flour
1 ½ c parmesan
2 eggs
¼ t nutmeg

Put spinach in a large pot (with nothing else), and cook 2 to 3 minutes until wilted. Drain and cool. Squeeze as much water as possible out of the leaves. Finely chop the spinach. Melt butter in skillet over medium-low heat, add onion, cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add proscuitto, then spinach. Transfer to large bowl. With a wooden spoon, add in ricotta, 1 ½ cups of flour, 1 cup parmesan, eggs, nutmeg, salt and pepper. The mixture will be soft. Spread additional flour on a dinner plate. Shape the mixture into small balls, roll in flour to coat, and set aside. Bring a large pot of cold water just short of a boil and add salt. Add gnocchi in batches, a few at a time. After they rise to the surface, cook for 1 min more and remove with slotted spoon. Repeat.

Drizzle with a sage butter sauce (1 stick of butter melted in a small saucepan with several sage leaves) and remaining parmesan.

Note: these are even better when made ahead and reheated just before serving. This dish is one of my favorites, and an entertaining staple.

Cost: 2 boxes of frozen spinach run about $1 each, if you catch them on sale. Everything else I buy in bulk; pennies for the onion, flour, and nutmeg, 17 cents each for the eggs, $3 or so for the ricotta, and let's say another $2 for the proscuitto and parmesan. The sage butter sauce is optional, but add another $1 for a stick of butter and some fresh sage. $6.50 or so for the entire batch, which will be big. It'll feed two adults as a main course for at least two, possibly three, meals, and will go much farther as an appetizer.

Things you can do with leftover turkey

I'm sure everyone is tired of turkey by now. But here are some things you can do to utilize all that leftover turkey.

1. Freeze it, and eat it in March when you're no longer sick of it.

2. Use turkey instead of chicken in common dishes--turkey salad instead of chicken salad. Turkey noodle soup. Turkey nachos. Add turkey to green salads and pasta dishes and pizza.

3. Be sure to turn the carcass into quarts and quarts of turkey broth, which you can use instead of chicken broth in future soups, risottos, etc. (You can freeze this too.)

4. Sandwiches. Duh. But try making the sandwich with thick pieces of homemade bread, layered with all the leftover mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, and green bean casserole. It's like Thanksgiving dinner all over again.

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Turkey gumbo

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

Here's something to do with all that leftover turkey:

1 c vegetable oil

1 c flour

1 ½ c chopped onions

1 c chopped celery

1 c chopped bell peppers

1 lb andouille sausage (kielbasa also works), sliced

1 ½ t salt

½ t cayenne

3 bay leaves

6 c water or stock

1 lb turkey, cut into chunks

1 T file powder (powdered sassafras, used as gumbo seasoning)

1 T each Paprika, garlic powder, salt, oregano, thyme, pepper


Combine oil and flour in large cast-iron Dutch oven, over medium heat. STIR CONSTANTLY AND EVENLY for 20-25 min, until flour/oil mixture becomes the color of chocolate. This is a dark roux. Once the roux is the proper color, add onions, celery and bell peppers and continue stirring 4-5 min. Add sausage, bay leaves and spices. Continue to stir 4-5 min. Add water or broth, stir til well combined. Bring to boil, reduce to medium-low. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, 1 hour. Add turkey, simmer for 2 hours. Remove, add file powder and fresh parsley. Serve over cooked white rice.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Road food

As I prepare to go off into the wild blue yonder with my sweetie for Thanksgiving weekend ("wild blue yonder" = Joshua Tree National Park, Sequoia National Park, Yosemite National Park, and Big Sur), I'm preparing a lot of food to take with us. The plan is to be out seeing things all day long, sleep in cheap hotels, and not spend any more money than absolutely necessary. I spent much of the summer eating out and eating classic road food like beef jerky; I'm excited to be able to travel with "real" food in tow.

My family couldn't go shopping for the morning without bringing enough food for each person to eat at least two meals, "just in case." It's ingrained; my in-car road-trip food stashes are bigger than a lot of people's entire pantries. I fully expect to have more than enough food to feed two people 3+ meals for 3 days on this trip, with plenty to spare. It sounds like a lot of effort and planning, I know. Many people wouldn't bother, would take a bottle of water and eat a lot of fast food. But this food is way better than that, and guess what? cheaper. Plus, it really doesn't take long to assemble. How long would it take you to pull off the road, find a restaurant, and eat crappy food for 3+ meals a day? Times however many days? Wouldn't you rather spend ninety  minutes at the front end, before you leave, and not ever have to worry about it?

I'm taking the usual stash of non-perishables. Water, juice, powdered Gatorade, Emergen-C, tea (iced and hot), coffee. Granola bars, chocolate bars, nuts (almonds, pistachios, peanuts), dried fruit. A couple bottles of wine. Napkins, cups, silverware, trash bags. In addition to that stuff, here's what I've made:

A batch of blueberry muffins, for breakfast. Can be eaten cold or reheated in the motel room microwave.

Pasta salad: orzo, feta, black olives, sundried tomatoes, mint, basil, a little red onion, some olive oil and red wine vinegar.

Quinoa salad: quinoa, edamame, a little red onion, dried cranberries, some reconstituted dried mushrooms.

Potato salad: I left the skins on, for extra fiber.

Burritos: a big batch, filled with a combination of black beans, brown rice, corn, cheese and salsa, wrapped up in big flour tortillas and then individually wrapped in plastic wrap. These can be eaten directly out of the cooler or reheated in the motel room microwave for a quick, filling dinner.

Sesame noodles: just like the kind you get with Chinese take-out. Combine peanut butter, sesame oil, chili oil, soy sauce, a little fish sauce, cayenne pepper, and sesame seeds into a smooth sauce, and add cold cooked spaghetti. Garnish with more sesame seeds (and more chili oil, if you like it hot, like I do).

Between all of this, plus all the aforementioned non-perishables, we'll be able to road-trip for three days solid without purchasing one. single. thing.

Cost: in a sense, nothing, since I already had all the ingredients in my pantry and all I had to do was combine them. But if I had to guess, I'd say the entire stash didn't cost more than $10, and that's including all the granola bars and coffee and stuff (all purchased in bulk, natch).

Monday, November 23, 2009


In another round of "what-do-I-have-in-the-fridge-that-needs-to-be-used-up," I decided to make a big vat of minestrone to get lots of disparate things out of the fridge. Here's what I threw into the minestrone, all of which were hanging out in my refrigerator left over from other projects, needing to be used in some way:

a couple of Italian sausages
an onion that was about to go bad (plus some garlic, of course, and some chopped bell peppers from the freezer)
a can of white beans
the last jars of chicken broth in the fridge, plus two cans of beef broth from the pantry
a large Ziploc bag of fresh tomato sauce
two heads of fresh kale
a handful of fusilli
a few random cherry tomatoes, ripened on the window sill
cuttings from my herb garden (oregano; thyme; rosemary; plus a handful of dried Italian seasoning)
the last of a bottle of red wine
a few pieces of already-cooked bacon, chopped

The great thing about soup is that it can be pretty much whatever you want it to be, and you can add pretty much anything to it. I cooked the sausages first; added the onion and garlic and cooked that until it was soft and translucent; and then dumped everything else into the pot and poured broth over it until the liquid came up over the top of the pile of solids. Cook until the kale is limp and the pasta is cooked through. Serve with lots of parmesan. Delicious, filling, and made me feel like I'd managed to simultaneously cross off several items on my to-do list.

Cost: hard to say, since I had all the items anyway, and the whole point was to combine them in some fashion. You can use any kind of pasta, beans, produce, whatever, in this; if you make your own broth, like I do, the cost is so low as to be negligible. I'll guess the entire pot of soup didn't cost more than a couple of dollars total, and we're talking about at least 7 or 8 quarts of soup. That will feed four adults for at least two separate meals.

Squash gratin

In preparation for our big Thanksgiving trip, I'm in the process of cleaning out the fridge. Step one: use up all the summer squash I got in my last co-op produce box. I realize this is not a problem people are likely to have in other parts of the country (using up summer squash in November), but if you can get some, this would be a great Thanksgiving side dish.

I sliced the five squash I had into roughly 1/4-inch slices, then sliced up about three regular potatoes. The squash will cook faster than the potatoes, so I wanted the potato slices to be razor-thin--I used the side of my box grater for those. Next, I pulled out a bag of pesto I'd made a week or so ago, and added a little extra olive oil to it. I mixed the pesto with the squash and potato slices, and added about 1/3 cup of seasoned bread crumbs and a couple of big handfuls of grated parmesan cheese. I layered this in a casserole dish, added a layer of breadcrumbs on top, and baked at 400 for about 40 minutes. You can add more or less bread crumbs, as you desire.

Cost: Well, the squash and the basil for the pesto came in my last produce box...we'll say a couple of dollars for both of those. The cheese was bought in bulk, I already had the potatoes and the breadcrumbs...maybe a little over $2 total? Feeds at least four as a side dish, two or three as a main course.

San Diego Wine and Food Festival

This weekend I went to the annual San Diego Wine and Food Festival, held in Embarcadero Park, overlooking the ocean. First, let me just say that as far as I'm concerned, that is an ideal way to spend a Saturday. 70 degrees, sunny, on the water, wandering from booth to booth sampling great food, great wine, exotic liquors, artisanal chocolates and oils, cigars, craft beers, etc., not to mention collecting all the free swag (magazines, recipes, coupons, pens, blah blah blah). I discovered a lot of new and small wineries, and got some great ideas to apply to my own cooking (notable flavor combinations and ideas include: scallops with edamame puree, tuna tartare with lemon confit, gnocci with duck ragu, and hummus with pomegranate seeds).

I ate a lot, drank a lot, and took some great pictures of the water. Craft vodkas and tequilas were big, as were Mexican fusion flavors--I had at least twenty different variations of the classic fish-and-chile combination. I tasted a lavendar liqueur, wine jellies, and smoky mushrooms cooked in a Big Green Egg (which, FYI, I am seriously lusting after right now).

Favorite finds included:
Eclipse Chocolat. A local company specializing in some really awesome chocolates. Chocolate bar flavors include Sweet Basil-Mint, Gingerbread Crumb, Sea-Salt Nib, Blackberry Sage, Coconut Lime, Mango Masala, Orange Peel Anise, Espresso Walnut, Chile Hazelnut, Moroccan Spice, Macadamia Ginger, and Kyoto Green Tea. My favorite is the Sea-Salt Nib--big chunks of sea salt, with a hint of lavendar, spread throughout the chocolate bar. Sounds bizarre, but trust me, it is really really good. Especially for a salt fiend like me.

Temecula Olive Oil Company. Artisanal olive oils and vinegars, made from 100% California olives. Yum.

Forlorn Hope Wines. A small-batch Napa winery. Their La Gitana Torrontes is the only Torrontes I've ever had (including all the ones I had in Argentina) that wasn't cloyingly sweet. Phenomenal balance and fruit. The Mil Amores blend was also spectacular. I like wines like this--made from uncommon grapes, by a winemaker who's more interested in quality than quantity. The downside of that is that these wines will be hard to find--I'll probably have to break down and order them directly from the winery. But well worth it, in my opinion.

As an added bonus, the winemaker is really cute.

Peltier Station Wines. I'm not usually one for dessert wines. They also tend to be cloyingly sweet, and served with desserts that are already cloyingly sweet in themselves. But Peltier Station USB is one of the few fruity-but-not-sweet dessert wines in the world. I really liked this. It's 100% Zinfandel, technically a port, but called USB because a new EU rule dictates that wineries can't use the word "port" unless the wine was made in Portugal. So they called it USB instead...Get it? USB? Port? In another outstanding bit of geekery, the binary code on the front of the bottle translates to "Peltier Station." Awesome.

Caliza Winery. Azimuth: a blend of Rhone varietals, Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre, Tannat and Alicante Bouschet. Very well balanced, and apparently Robert Parker's favorite of the bunch. Kissin' Cousins: another Rhone blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Viognier.

Bonus points for their excellent font.

Vinni Bag. Why the hell didn't anyone think of this before?

Bledsoe Gallery.  Because I'm a sucker for good travel photography--and pictures of wine corks.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Bacon and almond quinoa

Quinoa is a wonderfully versatile (and gluten-free) grain. Here's last night's impromptu riff on it.

I took one cup of quinoa and added two cups of broth, and let that cook down until the quinoa was done (about 15 minutes). While that was going, I diced some bacon and cooked it, and toasted a handful of sliced almonds. When the bacon was done, I removed it from the pan, poured off all but about two tablespoons of the bacon fat (which I save in the fridge), and sauteed a finely chopped shallot in the bacon fat. When the quinoa was done, I added the bacon, shallot, toasted almonds, and a small handful of chopped chives, fresh parsley, and some fresh Thai basil.

On a whim, I jazzed up the final product by adding a fried egg on top and a whole bunch of fresh salsa. Yum.

Cost: bulk quinoa is $3.99 a pound, and for a cup...let's say 60 cents. Roughly half a pound of bacon at $6.99 a pound (I won't scrimp on bacon!), plus 17 cents for the egg, plus maybe 50 cents for everything else, including the salsa. $5.26 total, serves two adults as a main course.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Banana bread

Banana bread can also be filed under "cheap things for breakfast," though it can also be a lovely dessert. (Added bonus: you can reheat a slice and crumble it over vanilla ice cream. This is particularly yummy with a raspberry sauce.) I like my bananas a little underripe, when the ends are still green. Once they turn fully yellow, I don't want them anymore. The problem is that a bunch of green bananas has maybe a day or two after they make it home, before they're too ripe for me. Either I have to eat a lot of bananas all at once, or find another use for overripe ones.

Enter the freezer. Now, the freezer is the greatest thing to happen to food since salt. It's usually vastly underutilized. You can freeze just about anything. Milk, bread, cheese, fruit, many different vegetables, chopped onions and garlic, cookies, juice, chocolate chips, broth, any kind of meat, nuts, you name it, you can put it in your freezer. Got half a gallon of milk or a few slices of bread about to go bad? In the freezer. You buy butter and cheese in bulk but can't use it quickly enough? Put it in the freezer. Love cooking but hate chopping onions? Do a bunch, put them in the freezer, use as needed. Bought a bunch of peppers/blueberries/spinach/whatever on sale? Use some, put the rest in the freezer for later. Got a bunch of overripe bananas? Put them in the freezer.

Don't peel them. Just throw them in there, whole. They'll turn black, but they're supposed to. Leave them there until you're ready to make banana bread (or banana muffins, or banana ice cream, or banana smoothies, or whatever). Let them thaw, then slice off one end and squeeze out the banana goo. It's not pretty, but it tastes great, especially when baked into something. So much more banana-y than fresh bananas.

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups mashed thawed banana
3 tablespoons lemon juice
3 cups sugar
3 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup melted Crisco
1/4 cup milk

Sift the dry ingredients and set aside. Add the lemon juice to the banana, mix a little, set aside. Blend sugar and shortening until fluffy; add eggs one at a time, blending well after each. Add the flour mix and the milk slowly, then the banana mix, until well blended. At this point you can add walnuts, or pecans, or cranberries, or chocolate chips, or anything else you see fit. Pour into two greased loaf pans, bake at 350 for one hour. Let cool 15 minutes before removing from pans.

Cost: 17 cents each for eggs, maybe 15 cents each for 3-4 bananas, the other ingredients bought in bulk and already in your pantry... I estimate maybe $1.25 total for two loaves.

Breakfast muffins

I gave up cereal a long time ago. It's expensive, it's full of added sugar, and most damning, it's not filling. After eating a bowl of cereal, I'm usually hungry an hour later. Plus, cereal requires me to keep milk around, which I don't usually do. (For recipes which require milk, I generally use powdered milk. I don't have to worry about it going bad, and there's no noticable taste difference.) But I still required a simple, portable, cheap breakfast I could take to work and eat there.

Enter the muffin. I make a batch every week (10-12 muffins), and take them all to work. Two muffins each morning, reheated, is a warm, comforting, very filling breakfast that will take me through till lunch. Note: These are regular-size muffins, made in a standard size muffin pan. Don't picture those 1,000-calorie monstrosities at Starbuck's. Those muffins aren't muffins, those are an excuse to eat half a cake.

Almost anything can be added to the basic recipe. Fresh fruit. Frozen fruit (I'm partial to frozen blueberries.) Overripe bananas, mashed up. Nuts. Raisins. Cranberries. Pumpkin puree. Chocolate chips. A combination of any of the above. Just stir into the batter recipe below. If you have some berries that are going to go bad soon, chop them up and throw them in the freezer. You can retrieve them later to put in these muffins. I've made multi-berry muffins before, with bits of frozen strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, cherries, whatever I had floating around in small amounts in the freezer.

I also like to make jam muffins. Double the recipe below, and fill the muffin cups up halfway with half the batter. Add a big spoonful of jam to each cup, then top with the other half of the batter. If you don't have any fruit available, you always have jam in your fridge.

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3/4 cup milk (I usually use powdered milk, reconstituted)

Mix, add whatever you're going to add, and place in a greased muffin tin. Bake at 400 for 20 minutes.

Ingredients in bulk, plus jam (homemade, free, thanks Mom!) or whatever leftover yummies I have available: maybe 10 or 15 cents each? Let's say a quarter, every morning, for breakfast. The calorie count is pretty minimal (you can scale back the sugar further if you want), and these are homemade, so you don't have to worry about preservatives. 30 seconds in the microwave every morning, eat at your desk. Done.

If you have kids, you can make two or three batches at once, of different varieties, and let them pick. A better breakfast than cereal, and while some kids balk at oatmeal, everybody likes muffins.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Crème brulee

And now for something totally different. Crème brulee.

The blog so far has been a lot of basics, and not a lot of gourmet. This is definitely gourmet. Crème brulee (which is French for "burnt cream," and is essentially a custard with a caramelized sugar crust) is decadent, fattening, and guaranteed to please any guests. Plus, it's healthier than a pint of Ben & Jerry's. (Really!)
I have a love-hate relationship with crème brulee. I love it, but I hate the version I usually get in restaurants. Restaurant crème brulee is generally served in a long, flat ramekin, and is about 50% custard and 50% solidified sugar crust (if you're lucky). I've often gotten crème brulee where the crust is so caramelized, it's virtually impenetrable. It's this hard, thick candy crust that I have to beat repeatedly with a knife in order to break it apart. It's barely even edible. Seriously? Not cool. That's not crème brulee, that's an excuse to eat sugar.

So I started making it at home, the way I like it--in a deep ramekin, with a sugar topping that's just barely burnt. No hard caramelization, and 98% custard. I like it that way so much, I got a crème brulee torch. Essentially it's a mini-blowtorch for your kitchen. Great fun to play with. But you can make this without a torch, and it's surprisingly easy, given that most people think it's terribly complicated and something one can only get in a fancy French restaurant. I will say this is one of the few recipes I follow by the letter. Usually I play fast and loose with measurements, proportions, seasonings, and even the basic ingredients, substituting willy-nilly, but this is not a dish that brooks substitutions.

2 cups heavy cream

3 large eggs

½ cup sugar

¾ teaspoon vanilla


Heat cream almost to a simmer. In a bowl, stir the eggs and sugar with a wooden spoon until just blended. Gradually stir into the cream, and add vanilla. Pour into ramekins and place them in a larger baking dish (I use a big Pyrex casserole). Add water to the large dish until it’s about halfway up the side of the ramekins. Bake at 250 until slightly quivery in the center, 1 to 1 ½ hours. Remove ramekins from water bath, let cool to room temperature. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours. To serve, unwrap, blot off any moisture, then caramelize by adding a dusting of sugar to the top of each one and either burn with a crème brulee torch or place under the broiler for a minute or so. Serve immediately.

Cost: I can get a big thing of heavy cream at Sam's for $2.98. Two cups of cream is somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 of that, so let's say $1.50 for the cream, 17 cents each for the eggs, pennies for the sugar and vanilla. Call it $2.15 total for 8 large ramekins of crème brulee, which is less than you'd pay for one distinctly inferior version in a restaurant.

Plus, you get to play with a blowtorch.

Pasta puttanesca

Pasta puttanesca is one of my old stand-bys. It can be made completely from canned ingredients, meaning I can whip it together at a moment's notice (since I always have these particular ingredients on hand). It's cheap, it's tasty, it has a world of flavor that pre-made sauces just can't touch, even if you are making this sauce from canned ingredients.

several swirls of olive oil
<BR1 oil
1 2oz can anchovy fillets, undrained
4 peeled garlic cloves
<BR4 cloves
1 35oz can tomatoes, drained (or 2 16oz cans whole tomatoes, drained)
1 2 1/2 oz jar capers, drained
1/2 c chopped black olives

Place the first three ingredients in a saucepan, and mash to form a paste. Add the rest, simmer medium-low for 30 minutes to one hour. Serve over any kind of pasta (I like linguine or penne with this). Top with plenty of freshly grated parmesan.

Don't let the anchovies throw you. They've gotten a bad rap, but they add a great depth to any sauce. There's no fishy taste at all, just a wonderfully complex

Cost: a tin of anchovy fillets typically runs about $1.50, a small jar of capers maybe $2.50, a can of black olives $1. I buy canned tomatoes in bulk at Sam's for about $0.57 per maybe $7 total for the sauce, and another dollar for the pasta, depending on what kind you use. Depending on your sauce/pasta ratio, this will feed at least four hungry adults for dinner.

I do have cheaper spaghetti sauces, which I'll cover. But this is a great dish to make in the dead of winter--filling, savory, and made entirely from the back of the cabinet.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Super-easy no-fail pie crust

Forget cutting butter or shortening in. Forget lard. Forget complicated 12-ingredient recipes that ask you to chill the dough first. This is the only pie crust recipe I ever use. It uses 4 ingredients, which can be added in any order, and always turns out a perfect, flaky pie crust. Even if the recipe calls for a different kind of crust, I use this one. It's good for pies, tarts, quiches, whatever. Learn it. Know it. Live it.

2 cups flour
1/2 c milk
1/2 c vegetable oil
pinch of salt

That's it. Mix together until a ball of dough forms. This makes one pie crust, top and bottom, for a standard-size pie pan. If you're making more than one pie, or have deep-dish pie pans, you'll need to increase the recipe. If you just need half (say, you're making a lemon meringue pie and don't need a top crust), you can split this recipe in half--or freeze the extra half. Take your ball of dough and divide in two. Roll out one half, with a little extra flour, and press into your pie pan. Roll out the other half and decorate/cut out shapes as you see fit for the top half.

Cost: maybe 25 cents?

Monday, November 16, 2009

My story

I firmly believe that anyone can cook, and more importantly, that everyone should cook. It seems intimidating at first. Believe me, I know--I did not spring fully formed as a gourmet chef from my mother's womb. In fact, in my early adulthood (read: college), I actively avoided cooking. Gradually I realized that I didn't like eating crap, that I wanted my food to taste good, that I could make something that tasted better than fast food. What cooking knowledge I have has been hard-won, built from years of forced frugality and experimentation. Yes, I too have purchased and eaten Hamburger Helper and Kraft Mac n' Cheese (though not for many years, thank God). I too have cooked with dull knives and tin pans. I too have mangled recipes, burnt dinner, been forced to eat my mistakes because I couldn't afford to throw it away. Somewhere along the way, cooking turned from something I did because I couldn't afford to eat out to an actual passion.

Tastes change, people change. Despite an advanced degree in theatre, and years spent freelancing as a theatre critic, at some point theatre had ceased to be the draw for me it once was. Instead, I was spending all free time and brain power thinking about food—cooking, collecting cookbooks, experimenting with recipes, eating at restaurants, reading about wine, going to wine tastings, etc. I planned my vacations around cities with a vibrant food culture and cuisine—Rome, Buenos Aires. I threw elaborate dinner parties for my friends, just because I liked entertaining. I sought out underground restaurants, and started hanging out with people who considered liquid nitrogen machines to be standard home kitchen equipment. I daydreamed about winning the lottery and opening a seaside barbecue shack somewhere. Yes, folks—I had become A New York Foodie. Even on my limited budget. (See above re: theatre.)


The roots of my food obsession were deep. I grew up in the rural South, which meant I spent my childhood eating from scratch. My father and brother were avid hunters, so most of our meat came out of the woods—venison, squirrel, rabbit, wild turkey, fresh fish. Everything could be cooked in bacon grease, even the bread. (I never knew a household that didn’t keep an old coffee can on the stove, full to overflowing with bacon grease, until I got to college.) My mom kept a backyard garden that was almost an acre, and canned or froze the bounty. Fresh corn, tomatoes, all manner of beans and potatoes and squash and melons, greens, cabbage, peppers, okra, and of course an enormous herb garden. We lived so far back in the country that my parents still can’t get cable or wireless internet; which meant that growing up, I was mostly a stranger to the luxuries of color TV, dishwashers, automatic dryers or junk food. (Well, until adolescence anyway, when we got a color TV, dishwasher and automatic dryer. Still no cable, though.)


I was bored stiff, at the time, and like most teenagers thought it grossly unfair that we couldn’t afford MTV or Froot Loops. I didn’t begin cooking in earnest until well into my twenties, largely as a reaction against my rural childhood; but when I did, it came naturally to me. And I’d grown up in the cooking school of “take two handfuls of flour and add enough butter ‘til it looks right,” so experimentation came naturally as well. While my pantry contains many staples my grandmother’s never heard of (miso, truffle oil, anchovy paste, couscous), my cooking still depends heavily on bacon grease, homemade bread, and fresh vegetables. I have the most adventurous palate of anyone I know (“Tripe soup? Bring it on!”), but I would no more eat Hamburger Helper again than I would stab myself in the eye with a rusty fork. My father and brother still consider Twinkies and Mountain Dew to be a perfectly acceptable breakfast; I didn't want that to be my fate, didn't want to squander my calories on bland, sugary, overly processed junk. Why eat Twinkies, I reasoned, when foie gras tasted so much better?

So, what does this mean for you? It means that anyone can teach themselves to cook. At its most basic, cooking is just following directions. Anyone can follow directions. Get a good cookbook, find a recipe that sounds good, try it. If you make a mistake, if something doesn't turn out right, make notes in the margin. Try again. It will take time and effort, at first. But once you get the hang of it, conjuring dinner from scratch will take no more time and effort than Kraft Mac n' Cheese does now. My best-loved cookbooks are falling apart, cracking away from the binding, pages littered with all manner of stains, some pages literally loved out of existence. They all have notes in the margin--"More garlic," "ground pork not ground beef," "25 minutes!!," "try cranberries instead?" Once you get the basic recipe down, it's easy to start experimenting with it, to play with the seasonings, to substitute other things.  

The cost of accumulating a real kitchen--cookbooks, good knives, exotic spices--is daunting. I know, I've been building mine for years. But once you start getting the good stuff, its cost amortizes. Think of how much money the average family spends on lunches at work, pizza, Lean Cuisine dinners, processed crap. Think how much you'll save when you stop buying all that stuff. Now you can put that money--slowly--toward building a pantry. Cost of knives and pans aside, I spend less than $200 a month feeding two people. I can spend that little because I spent so much over the years buying good kitchen stuff on sale, on eBay, on craigslist. And practicing, practicing, practicing.

This is my gospel: that anyone could cook. That everyone should cook. Even if you're poor. Even if you don't know the difference between sugar and flour. Even if you work three jobs and have twelve kids. Cooking from scratch tastes better. It's cheaper. It's better for you. Most importantly, it tastes better.

Now that I know what I'm doing, cooking is fun. It's relaxing. When you're cooking, you can only think about cooking. The rest of the world fades away. I can spend a couple of hours banging around in the kitchen, wielding my knives, singing along to good music, trying things out, and at the end, my brain has been cleared out. And I have this really great thing to eat. That's so awesome.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Chicken fingers

You're probably thinking, "Now why are you extolling the virtues of 25-cents-a-serving soup, when you've just told the world you have a kitchen full of truffle oil, imported sea salt and good wine?" Well, my food dollar only goes so far. I'd much rather spend it on good wine, to drink with my bean soup, than spend it on pre-processed anything.

Case in point: chicken fingers. Even the pickiest child will eat them, but they're usually little more than a breading delivery system. The chicken is suspect, they're full of preservatives, and more often than not they taste like breaded grease. So, confronted with a picky ten-year-old, who can turn his nose up at a peanut butter and jelly sandwich ("The peanut butter and jelly came from separate jars! I like it when they come from the same jar!"), I decided to try my hand at homemade chicken fingers.

The key here is panko--Japanese breadcrumbs made from a special kind of crustless bread. They're very airy and crispy, and will give the chicken fingers that great crispy crackly crust. Regular breadcrumbs usually just turn soggy.

2 chicken breasts or 3-4 chicken thighs (I used the thighs and noticed no taste difference)
2-3 cups panko
Seasonings as you see fit (I seasoned the panko with paprika, salt and pepper)
3 eggs, beaten

Cut the chicken into strips, and roll each strip in the egg wash before coating it with panko. Lay each strip on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper. Bake at 350 for 20-25 minutes.

The adults ate theirs with Thai peanut sauce; the child ate his with ketchup (naturally). For once, he did not turn up his nose.

I used chicken thighs, bought in bulk and on sale (5 pounds for $11.99). A pound of chicken = $2.40, plus most of a box of panko at $2.99, plus 3 eggs at 13 cents each. A grand total of $5.78 for close to 40 chicken strips, which is around 14 cents each.

Bar Basics

Once again, this is just what I consider to be essential. I know plenty of people that wouldn't consider a bar complete without Midori and Kahlua, but I think of those as strictly optional. Then again, I'm the only person I know that considers Tuaca essential, so there you go.

Plenty of red and white wine and champagne/sparkling wine


Vodka (Grey Goose)

Gin (Hendrick’s)

Rum (Gosling’s and a white rum)

Bourbon (Woodford Reserve)

A good scotch

A good tequila

Vermouth (sweet and dry)

Triple sec




Eau de vie



Grand Marnier

St. Germain


Bitters (regular and Peychaud’s)









Cassis, framboise, amaretto, or Frangelico

This is a great website that breaks it down:

Bar supplies:
Cocktail shaker
Wine stoppers, champagne stopper
Red and white wine glasses
Highball glasses
Champagne flutes
Dessert wine glasses
Martini glasses
Shot glasses

Kitchen Basics

This list is not intended to be completely comprehensive, as it represents my kitchen. For example: I don’t own cookie cutters, because I don’t have kids. I never saw the point of a breadmaker, and I use my food processor instead of a blender. If you make a lot of mixed drinks or smoothies, a blender will be more useful for you. I use an egg separator, because I’m no good at separating them by hand. I also have a lot of specialty devices (deep fryer, ice cream maker) that other people may not find nearly as useful. So adapt as you see fit.

A really, really good set of knives – I have the Shun Ken Onion set. You can’t pay too much for knives.
KitchenAid stand mixer (I have the pasta making attachments as well)
Coffee maker
Espresso machine
Toaster oven
Food processor
Crock pot
Deep fryer
Ice cream maker
Waffle iron
Coffee grinder
Immersion blender (a.k.a. stick blender)

Pots and Pans
Cast iron skillet (various sizes)
One good big all-purpose skillet
Saucepans, with lids, of various sizes
Large stockpot
Large Dutch oven

For baking
Lasagna pan (this doubles as a roasting pan, with removable roasting rack
Casserole dishes of various sizes
Crepe pan
Cookie sheets/baking sheets, various sizes
Tart pan
Pie pans (2)
Cake pans (3)
Soufflé pan
Pizza stones (2)
Springform pan
Muffin pan
Ramekins (12)
Bundt pan (fluted and plain)

The little stuff
Baster and a basting brush
Bottle opener
Butter dish
Cake server
Can opener
Champagne stopper
Corn holders
Creamer and sugar dishes
Crème brulee torch
Cutting boards, various sizes
Decorative pie cutters
Egg separator
Extra squeeze bottles
Flour sifter
Gnocchi paddle
Gravy boat
Icing palette
Instant thermometer
Kitchen scissors
Kitchen towels and washcloths
Measuring cups and spoons
Meat tenderizer
Melon baller
Metal skewers
Microplane, hand grater, six-sided stand grater
Mixing bowls of various sizes
Pasta cutter
Pastry bags and tips
Pastry wheel
Pie weights
Pizza wheel
Pot holders
Potato masher and potato ricer
Rolling pin
Rubber spatulas of various sizes
Salad tongs
Salt and pepper grinders (or a salt pig)
Serving trays, olive tray
Spatulas of various sizes, and a fish spatula
Steak knives
Tea ball
Tongs of various sizes
Tupperware (lots and lots)
Vegetable peeler
Whisks, flat whisk
Wooden spoons and serving spoons of various sizes

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Pantry Basics

My pantry is more than just food storage. A good pantry takes time (and money) to build, so don’t try to get everything at once. Get what’s most important to you to start, gradually adding things as they’re on sale, and gradually phasing out all the crap (junk food, sugary cereals, soda, etc.). There are probably several things on here that are unfamiliar (fish sauce, for example) or that other people would never consider essential (Nutella, truffle oil). Again, feel free to adapt this list to your own purposes. I have all these things because with this pantry, I can make or fake almost any recipe out there.

Here’s what I consider to be essential:

Flour (all-purpose; bread; White Lily Self-Rising, for biscuits; semolina; whole wheat and rye flours)
Sugar (regular, brown, confectioner’s)
Baking soda
Baking powder
Powdered milk
Baking chocolate (cocoa powder; semisweet; bittersweet; chips)
Bread crumbs
Karo syrup (light and dark)
Graham crackers
Croutons (homemade)

Spaghetti and/or linguine
Elbow macaroni
Lasagna noodles


Grains and beans
Black beans
Black-eyed peas
Garbanzo beans
Red beans
White beans
Pinto beans
Grits (the slow-cooking kind)
Israeli couscous
Lentils (green and red)
Steel-cut oats
Pearled barley
Bulgur wheat

Dried fruit (apricots, raisins, cranberries, blueberries, assorted other)
Sundried tomatoes
Dried peppers, various kinds
Dried mushrooms, various kinds
Vanilla beans

Almonds (whole and sliced)
Pine nuts

Oils and vinegars
Apple cider vinegar
Balsamic vinegar
Champagne wine vinegar
Chili oil
Grapeseed oil
Olive oil, the best you can afford
Peanut oil
Red wine vinegar
Rice wine vinegar
Tarragon vinegar
Truffle oil
Walnut oil
Vegetable oil
White vinegar
White wine vinegar


Sauces and Condiments
Fish sauce
Hot pepper sauces
Maple syrup (REAL maple syrup)
Memmi sauce
Oyster sauce
Peanut butter
Peanut sauce
Soy sauce
Sriracha chili sauce
Worchestershire sauce
Thai curry paste (green and red)

Allspice (ground and whole)
Barbecue seasonings (a variety)
Bay leaves
Cardamom (ground and whole)
Cayenne pepper
Celery salt
Chili powder
Cinnamon (ground and whole)
Cloves (ground and whole)
Cream of tartar
Cumin (regular and whole)
Curry paste
Curry powder
Dried mustard
Dried pepper flakes
Fennel seeds
Filé powder
Garam masala
Garlic powder
Ginger (ground, crystallized and whole ginger root)
Ground pepper
Liquid smoke
Mustard (ground and whole mustard seeds)
Old Bay
Onion powder
Paprika (regular, Hungarian sweet, and Spanish smoked)
Poppy seeds
Salt (sea salt, regular table salt, and various flavors of smoked salt)
Sesame seeds
Star anise
Wasabi powder
Whole peppercorns

Canned items
Anchovies (in tins and anchovy paste, in tube form)
Beef broth (as a backup)
Coconut milk
Evaporated milk
Tomato paste (also in tube form)
Tomato sauce
Whole tomatoes

Tea and coffee
Black tea
Cold-brew iced tea bags
Green tea
Peppermint tea
Various herbal teas
Whole bean coffee

In the fridge
Bacon fat
Cornichons (little French pickles)
Cream cheese
Duck fat
Feta cheese
Goat cheese
Gorgonzola or other blue cheese
Jalapenos or other hot peppers
Lemon juice
Lime juice
Mustard (regular and Dijon)
Plain yogurt
Sour cream

In the freezer
Andouille sausage
Broth (chicken or vegetable)
Frozen corn
Frozen peas
Frozen spinach
Ground beef or turkey or pork
Italian sausage
Peppers (green or red, chopped, plus chopped hot peppers)
Puff pastry
Whole chickens
Chicken parts (whatever's on sale)

A good supply of dish towels and dish rags
A good supply of jars/Tupperware (to put homemade broth into)
Disposable latex gloves, for chopping hot peppers
Kitchen matches
Paper towels
Ziploc bags
Parchment paper
Wax paper

Friday, November 13, 2009

The only bread recipe you'll ever need. Really.

This one right here.

This is the infamous "no-knead" bread recipe that has swept the foodie community ever since Mark Bittman published it in the Times in 2006. I've made it, it works, it's the only bread recipe I ever use.

Two notes: proportions aren't critical here. You can add more yeast and salt; in fact, I encourage this. (It tastes better.) Second, you can let the dough rise for as long as 24 hours without harm. Also, I usually end up using more water than the recipe calls for. Keep adding until all the flour is incorporated and you get the shaggy, sticky dough the recipe calls for.

Time is the key factor in this recipe. Yes, you'll need to mix the dough the day before and let it sit. But really, it takes three minutes to mix the dough. 24 hours will pass whether or not you want to make bread, and this recipe does all the work for you. No kneading, no KitchenAid bread hooks, a bare minimum of yeast, and it's virtually fool-proof.

I say "virtually" because once I forgot to put in salt and the bread tasted weird. So don't forget the salt.

Also, good equipment will make or break this bread. I already had a big cast-iron Dutch oven; if you have one, or similar (Le Creuset, a big ceramic pot), you're all set. If not, you won't get that great crispy shattering crust that is the envy of amateur cooks everywhere. Also, if you do, and you get that great crispy shattering crust, you'll then need a really good serrated bread knife in order to cut it properly. But don't let that stop you. Both these items are essential to a well-stocked kitchen anyway.

I use this crusty peasant loaf for everything. Sandwich bread. French toast. Regular toast. Croutons. I see similar round crusty artisanal loaves going for $3.99 or $4.99 apiece in fancy markets; considering the cost of bulk bread flour ($8.99 for 25 lbs), you can make this bread at home for...15 or 20 cents' worth of flour? Plus the cost of running the oven? You can't buy bread anywhere for anywhere near that price. And considering the amount of time and effort it takes to make this bread, I think it would take more time and effort to order sandwich bread online and have it delivered.